OR
The harrowing story of how one hobbit survived a journey from the shire to the underworld. GRIN!!!
Visiting Wai'anapanapa is like visiting an old friend who has moved far
away, to the other side of the world. Often Hana seems like the other side of the
world even though it’s on the same island.
This
post is a continuation of the Road to Hana, #HanaTrip series based on a social
media trip to Hana in May. If you haven’t read the first Hana post in this series,
please do so, including the disclaimer.
Wai'anapanapa State Park is a very potent place. Not just scenic but
elemental and otherworldly. Beautiful, haunting and primordial
with lava spires and formations, a gorgeous black sand beach, and layers of
mystery and legend, it could be a setting for a fantasy movie.
On
the way there, Roxanne regales us with a real life hippie story of Wai'anapanapa, 20+ years ago and we
are shaking w/ laughter and incredulity, but it is so classically Maui and stranger than fiction that it’s utterly
believable. It is as good as any Moth Up story I’ve heard, but since it’s not
my story to tell, I hope she will share it on her site.
Our
bus turned down a side road. To the right, a sign for Baby Pigs Crossing, where
Walter, our bus driver, graciously stopped so I could snap a quick picture.
Almost to Hana now. We were still giddy from the morning, even talking about taking
a detour to Hana High School to see the art program which
Roxanne had mentioned.
The
bus stops. Walter our driver says we have about 45 minutes here.
Eager
to explore, we dash out like the escaping fizz from a freshly opened soda can. A big
line at the women’s restroom. Ah, we arrived at the time that everyone else was
there, sometime before noon. I don’t remember ever seeing it that busy.
The
park was teeming with giant 2-legged ants, I mean humans.
Scurrying.
Picture-taking. Exploring. Talking. Deciding. Hobbiting.
Where
to go?
Straight
ahead to a Hawaiian burial site of mounded lava rocks?
To the right to see
mysterious lava formations and spires sculpted by wind and water?
To the left, down
to the picturesque black sand beach with waves rolling across lava pebbles?
Or
to the far left to the underwater caves of ancient Hawaiian legend?
There
are some adventures that are planned painstakingly in advance, with double and
triple check lists. There are other adventures that just happen spontaneously.
I am a sucker for the latter. I was not planning to have an adventure, but it
happened.
Having
an adventure now and then is good for the soul: it stretches our ideas of what
could be.
Chris, our trip organizer, had suggested bringing swim wear and towels in case we
wanted to stop at a waterfall or pool or … the Wai'anapanapa caves. Despite two
camping trips at Wai'anapanapa, I had never explored the caves.
A
large sign greets the path. It is the legend of the caves, and how a beautiful
princess was slain, turning the waters red:
Do
I go in, do I stay out?
What do I do?
If I go in, what do I do with my stuff?
I
just want to take a dip I decide. But what to do with smartphone, wallet, glasses,
and camera? Hmmm… An area full of tourists and the possibility of petty theft. I
would like to say theft doesn’t happen on Maui ,
but all my alarm bells know otherwise.
Magically
three others from our bus appear out of nowhere: Jill, Darren, and Roxanne. Jill
and Darren, who I suspect have partnered in many escapades, have clearly premeditated
on this outing. They are equipped with a GoPro camera and a flashlight sealed
in a Ziploc bag. After hearing Roxanne’s wild hippie story, I knew she was
familiar with the caves too.
I
am having flashbacks of a scary underwater swim to the Blue Room, an underwater
cave on Kauai . Jill says there is no section
where one has to swim under the water to get to the next cave.
Fortified
by the presence of three Wai'anapanapa cave experts, I decide
to do a Bilbo Baggins and go on an adventure.
Carmel
is now watching the worldly goods of myself and the other three hobbits.
I am too skittery to jump. It is
enough to get in cold dark cave water… so I sidle in slowly down the rocks.
It’s cold but not freezing. There are still loads of people ahead of us, in the
water and in the next cave over. We can see their dark shapes and hear them
talking and squealing. Without my glasses, they are more shadowy than shadows.
Jill takes the lead and points out a
gap toward the back of the cave, saying to slide in slowly on one’s back to get
to the next cave. It is not a wide gap, and we worried that the person ahead of us might get stuck.
The Now or Never Moment ("Turn Back and Save Yourselves!"):
I watch Roxanne slither down and
disappear. Holding my breath, I slither down after her. There is a queasy sensation of falling as I scrape my back, but it lasted only a moment. I was only a foot or two lower than before. I hardly notice my scratch.
Onward, Hobbits!
Again, Jill takes the lead with the
waterproofed flashlight and Darren takes the rear. He raises the GoPro like a
victory flag to videotape our exploits. There is a narrow hall-like
passage in my memory, with deeper water of an unknown depth, but the smooth
walls still offer firm hand holds.
We awkwardly navigate through this
next passage, slowed down by the line of people in front of us. In my memory,
there is another crossing into another cave, but I can’t be sure. With all the
people in front of us, I start feeling nervous at how slowly this is taking to
cross the caves in the darkness. I am really wishing I had put on my contacts this morning. I try not to bump into Roxanne.
Darren says there is another cave
entrance we could have taken if we had gone to the right in the first cave, but
it seems more complicated to get through. I can only focus on one cave at a
time.
Continuing Through the Underworld
We continue forward, grip by breath
by grip with some dog paddling and wading in between. A voice in our
group says we are swimming in the freshest pool of water on Maui ,
since it is filtered through all the lava rock. But the red shrimp are
hardly seen anymore. I am pondering the water quality and almost want to
taste it, except so many people have been in it today.
"Get Me Outta Here!"
There is more light now towards the
back and I can see people tentatively climbing up between pauses. Jill says it
is normally a fast trip, but took much longer behind all these people. She says
she has never seen a guide take people in the caves before and offers me the
chance to go out first. I am relieved to get out of this tight dark space, so I
scramble up.
It is a little slippery at first. The initial climb requires a little
strength in the upper arms and core muscles, so I am grateful now for the
ridiculous chicken egg collecting I do in the gulch behind our house.
A view of the cave exit from the trail. |
Daylight at Last!
It is a quick climb now. I am in daylight and not sure where we are. Jill pops out next and then the others. I am so excited to be in the open air that I give everyone a big hug and now want a “I survived the Wai'anapanapa Caves” t-shirt.
It is a quick climb now. I am in daylight and not sure where we are. Jill pops out next and then the others. I am so excited to be in the open air that I give everyone a big hug and now want a “I survived the Wai'anapanapa Caves” t-shirt.
We are up towards the top of the trail, near the cave sign, and
have to hobble down the gravelly steps to the cave entrance to get our
stuff. Unlike hobbits, we humans have tender soft soles. It is a slow
descent, with careful steps. Carmel is waiting for us, probably wondering what took us so
long. Mahalo Carmel!
We spot our tour wrangler, Chris, at the cave entrance again. "Are you going in?" we ask. "Are you outta your mind?" Jill and Darren decide to do another
quick dip and we all scatter to the four winds. After toweling off, I race to
the top to see how late I am for the bus.
Our adventure took longer than
expected. Up ahead is Walter, our driver, with Malia who also later wrote about our Hana Trip, and I join them and we
“talk story” for a few minutes. He says he is going to head back now, and in a
snap decision, I rush back to the trail because I really want to take a photo
of those rocky steps we gingerly barefooted down. I mention this to Malia so
that she knows where I am.
This is the picture that made me late for the bus: the gravelly path we hobbled back, in bare feet. Excuses, excuses. |
Of course, I am late for the bus when
I get back. They were sending a search party for me. I feel remorseful for delaying everyone, and then feel oddly
good about it. Jill is no longer the last one on the bus, for which we teased
her all morning. Plus I am exhilarated to be in one piece and on dry land!
Safe back in the bus, we hurtle
towards our next destination, Travaasa
Hana for lunch. It’s not on
the normal itinerary for Valley Isle Excursions, so we know it will be special.
The next post on Travaasa Hana is intended to be a guest post on
another blog. I will include the link once it’s posted, hopefully next
week or so. I am also looking forward to upcoming videos and blog posts
by Roxanne, Jill and Darren, especially about our hobbit adventure in the
caves. Check back in a week or so for updates.
Where will your next hobbit adventure take you? |
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